Castle & Fishtail Setting
This is the new kid on the block, a setting style that only became popular in recent times but has grown in popularity and is now widely seen within jewellery. A variation of claw and pavé setting, castle and fishtail are basically the same technique as the latter but without outer walls.
It is one of the most intricate and tricky techniques you can learn as a stone setter. Also referred to as micro claw, as the name suggests, everything is done on a very small scale, with wee, round stones on a tiny, technical basis.
For this tutorial, we use slightly larger stones so as to get the maximum effect from teaching, but as you progress with this, you can gradually get smaller with your practice and get a real feel for the technique!
It's one of our favourites, and hopefully, it becomes one of yours too. And remember, we teach at the most economical level. We and our skills are absolute proof that you don't need all the fancy kit with bells and whistles to achieve proper, high-end setting. We don't use microscopes, pneumatic tools or fancy ball vices. Let's show you how!
What will you learn?
Castle and fishtail setting are, on paper, a little bit simpler to set up than pavé... but we all know we don't set on paper. Because of the intricacies and the accuracies demanded by these styles, we use stones a little bit bigger than traditionally associated with them. As with pavé, we will walk you through stage by stage how to drill out, remove the materials, prepare the claws, then seat and set the stones. For fishtail, we also will show you how to cut these lovely decorative angles. And all this is done without any hugely expensive kit or equipment. We teach at a simple, economical level and are proof that first-class setting is possible without tbankrupting yourself! Let us show you how to hand cut for these styles of setting using scorpers/gravers as well as how to be precise with stone placement.
What will you learn?
Maybe you can claw set and bezel set with ease, but you’re still avoiding the more tricky techniques or continuing to outsource. This is the course for you! But to understand and cope with the skill level here, you’ll need to have an excellent understanding of jewellery making. Knowledge of moderate to advanced jewellery techniques is most definitely required. Skills such as soldering, filing and saw piercing are essential. Prior experience with scorpers/gravers is probably essential for learning how to cut the decorative angles for fishtail. You’ll need good control with a pendant motor and have experience drilling holes.
What's possible?
Once you've completed this course, and have practised, practised, practised, what kind of setting work could you achieve?
Well, let's take a look at some previous Vanilla Ink commissions as inspiration.
Simple
Just crisp, clean and classic. Fifteen 2mm brilliant cut diamonds beautifully castle set half eternity style for a wedding band. Just perfect.
More complex
A full eternity ring, this time in platinum with 2.5mm diamonds. This ring was fishtail set, but note the additional cuts underneath the shank!
Showing off
How's about creating a castle set ring as part of trilogy of awesome rings of bling? Beautifully made by Lorna and an absolute diamond delight
Meet your tutor
Scott McIntyre is the founder and Creative Director of Vanilla Ink CIC, and a Master Goldsmith and Setter. He is responsible for commissions and class content, leading the creative policies, and shaping how the company looks and sounds. With nearly 30 years of experience in the industry, there isn’t much Scott doesn’t know!
His jewellery journey began early, embarking on an apprenticeship when he was just sixteen in one of Glasgow's top workshops. In his career, he has picked up an extensive set of skills, learning from a variety of other jewellers while creating and finely tuning his own techniques.
After years of plying his trade across Scotland’s Central Belt, he found his calling as a naturally gifted tutor. Scott has a wonderful ability to connect with his students, making sure everyone feels at ease and ensuring that each student leaves his sessions with a far greater knowledge of jewellery making. His abilities, patience and tolerance are famous, as is his love of a life-enhancing playlist. In recent years, his book ‘Stone Setting’ was published. How fancy.
Diagnosed as autistic as an adult, Scott has always been open and honest about his mental health and aims to use his own experiences to help others who are struggling or have had similar issues in the past.
How we teach
How our online classes look and feel, alongside the way you'll learn
Relaxed and personable
Our courses make you feel like we're right there, talking to you. They are relaxed and are filmed in a flowing, uncomplicated way that's easy to follow
Close ups
We realise that this kind of content is tricky and intricate. This means it requires being as close up and personal to the action as possible
Multiple angles
We filmed with multiple cameras to give you the complete experience. The tutorials are delivered with the right shot at the right time
What's included
What you'll need
Tools
Flat scorper [1.5mm approx]
Lozenge graver [2mm]
Sharpening stones/wheels
Ring clamp
Push tool
Dividers
1mm hand drill
Shank drill - 1mm, 1.5mm
Ball burr - 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm
Setting burr - 3mm
Crosscut burr - 1.3mm, 2mm
Oil / lube
Toothbrush
Optivisors / eye Loupe
Various beaders / grain tools
Materials
Copper bar - 4mm x 3.2mm x 45mm [approx]
3mm CZs
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